Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs Non Dosé 2016

100% Chardonnay from a plot named Les Barillers, situated mid slope in Vertus, which has been vinified separately since 1995. Fermented spontaneously in old wooden vats and casks, natural malo, aged on lees the following year without fining or filtration. Aged sur lattes for more than five years. Disgorged by hand a year before release. Dosage 0 g/l. Like a broad arrow, burnished, powerful, driving smoke and cracked caramel from beginning to end with tremendous purpose. Roasted oatmeal. So much density it’s almost more of a meal than a drink. Warm, gingery spices. Salt and sour butter and bitter orange peel. A wine that challenges you, broad-chested heart to rib-caged heart. A wine with rhythm, beat, purpose. All-encompassing.